The Runaway Cook

A diary of culinary adventures

PAUSE: A Look Within


I well know that only the best stews and soups can be made when the beginning is nothing but bones, parsley stems, sprigs of thyme, dried bay leaves, and a few choice vegetables. But do any of those things sound pleasant? Do I look at a giant chink of beef bone and think to myself, “now that looks delicious!” NO! Instead I glance at the ridged thing and try to ignore the obvious blotches of blood and hanging flesh while coating them with oil and find myself wondering why the hell I thought this would be something you wanted to eat. Yet I press on, knowing that only this strange and awkward item can make a dark rich beef stock that will be the backbone of my stew. 
Even after the bones are roasted, they force the cook to doubt. No aromas of roasted meat or beefy richness. No golden seared edges or lovely brown bits in the pan.  Instead it smells more like a baked cow hide or a barn that’s burned down with the animals inside. And the color, brown and with unappetizing baked blood all just sitting in a pool of melted fat. Delicious is far from what one thinks in a moment like this. Perhaps airline barf bag is a more accurate thought description. 
Despite my every sense screaming “Aaaa-wooooo-ga! Abandon ship” and “Dump those disgusting chunk before this gets worse”  I know from many pots past that this is the right thing. My stew will turn out, and once I flood this caldron of stems, stick, dried leaves, bones and vegetation with water a supernatural transformation will begin. 
It’s hard to believe that such strange beginnings can give rise to what I really want. When you think about it, time is really the most important ingredient  . . .or well maybe it’s faith. I guess that’s debatable...
In the end, I just want my stew and not the bloody bones and unwanted botanical trimmings. Why is the beginning so far from the ending that they don’t even resemble one another?

The only thing I have to go on is that someone told me this will work. Either by written recipe or the holler of a large French man that believes himself to be the God of all kitchens. I just have to believe that what I begin with will somehow transform after the assistance of time. Patience is the key . . .and yet that idea is still incomplete. One can’t just stand there and hope that time will do everything for them. Patience is active, laziness is passive. Rather, one must prepare for the next step: place the strainer over the holding container, chop the next set of vegetables, dry the meat for searing, wash the dishes, and so on. Not all tasks seems pertinent or vital but they are necessary for reaching the goal. Delicate care must be given to each moment for a cook to reach a triumphant ending. Focus must be on the present or the details may be forgotten. Whoever said it’s the “big picture” that counts forgot that it was the fine lines of the painting that turned the big blob into the big picture.
Skipping that whole first part would be a disaster . . but jumping in after the tedious part is over sometimes sounds like a good idea. It’s just hard to believe that something so rich, delicious, and satisfying can come from such meager beginnings. It’s not logical to believe that those unpleasant parts led to the pleasure . . or is it? 
Sometimes I wonder if all of life can be paralleled by food or if only the most meaningful lessons are hidden within the makings of deliciousness.


photo by: http://sassandveracity.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83452fd3369e20111685bb074970c-500wi

Ciao Bella ;)


http://www.panoramio.com/photo/12473875
Nose and cheek press to the warm glass window of this blue SITA bus as is leans nearly on two wheels with each tightly coiled corner. Hand hangs onto blue and red colored seat ahead to steady the awestruck eyes. Eyes gape and mouth gawks at the green mountains that disappear into the turquoise sea. Even from the high points of this ride, I can see straight to the bottom of the beach. Each tan and toasty colored stone looks like unrefined, rock sugar gleaming beneath colored water. 


http://www.indy.com/photos/21575/people/jaydjayd
AND the fact that when that heavenly bus ride ended, I got off a town too late for my hostel. OR that after taking the bus back to Atrani (which is basically up the hill and through a tunnel from Amalfi) I had to lug my suitcase down a two foot wide staircase that I nearly slipped on, then up another two foot wide staircase to get to the door of my hostel was not going to ruin this state of sleepless-heightened awe. Even the extremely odd innkeeper that had the strangest high pitched italian accent, did phase me. I now had a bed, a shower, a source of food not too far from me and it was all located less than a football field away from the 
                                                                                    edge of the water. 

http://www.cromwell-intl.com
After a couple hours of sleep I wandered down the white janga-style stacked steps the the Atrani piazza. Here one can find a grocers, general store, wine store, gelato parlor, and three places to eat. To those of you who have never been to Atrani, this town is teeny. That said this square is even teenier, smaller than a baseball diamond. Having all this in here is a little astonishing.     At this point I am ravished with huger enough to eat five pounds of just about anything. I pick the first table I come to. I sit in the bamboo-like outdoor chair under the shade of a square canopy, stare up at the mountain peeking above these stoney buildings hung with ornaments of laundry and shutters and wait . 
                                                                                         Italian Men
http://www.amalficoastweb.com/atrani/english/location.html
To me it's not any shocker that the man who is serving me looks like one of those guys on the covers of a sleazy romance novel. In fact I can't help but stare at the cliche that has placed the menu in front of me. His jaw had to be on steroids to look that chiseled. And the cheekbones on this guy, man they looked almost fake with their taut high curves and dark dreamy eyes above. His espresso-colored locks of shiny straight hair swayed in the ocean breeze as his rippled torso pulled back to an upright stance. Now he was just standing there in his shaggy jeans and a black t-shirt staring back at me. 
Somehow we stop looking at each other, and I'm certain that I've turned redder than those salamis hanging in the grocers. The worst part to all this, that this guy thinks he is the guy on all those romance novels. To me though he seems like Santa Claus, someone I never expected to see in real life. For our purposes aka future reference, we are going to call dark-haird book-man, Marcelo. 
I order gnocchi is tomato sauce. Unfortunately, this place is not the best for getting great food. I'm pretty sure that crispy gnocchi is a bad sign. Yes, sadly some of what should be delicate little potato pillows ended up being dried and a bit aged. Well, what should i expect for Italian fast food with  a guy running it that can't keep his eyes off the women. 

Despite the less than amazing meal, I am completely satisfied. I am safe, have food in my tummy, have actually slept and can see the ocean through the stone arches holding up the road. 

AND As the men here say Ciao Bella to you my beautiful Amalfi ;)

Email, ahhhhhh si!!!!

So I have stepped outside for the first time, and at 8am, Salerno is already steamy as the sun is just peeking over the buildings.

I better get a move on, since I have more traveling to do. I need to find an Internet source to let my family know I'm alive, tell the hostel that I had booked for yesterday and today that my planes we changed, making me arrive in Salerno too late to check in, oh and email the Mozzarella farm that I need to visit them later in the week, there's no way I can do that today.

So when one doesn't speak Italian and they are traveling in a less touristy Italian town, how the heck do you figure out where to go and who to ask? The Polizia! Dressed in navy blue uniforms with badges and official-looking white hats, they are sure to be trustworthy and hopefully can speak english.

The first police man I came to was chubby, grey-haired man walking leisurely along the wide sidewalk of the main street. I hollered, "Me scusa. Parla inglesi?" which means, "Excuse me. Do you speak English?"
"Un poco." He said, which means, "a little".
I ask him where I can find the internet. He doesn't know what I mean. So I say, computer, web, in-ter-net, email.
"Ahhhhhhh! Email-uh, si, si, si! You need internet-ta point-te?"
"SI!"

He continued to give me directions. Which, in the end I realized were perfect directions, but in my sleepless state and they only confused me further. He said walk three stoplights down and it is on the right across from "Camera" something. Now the word "camera" in english means a camera shop full of electronics right. In Italian, "camera" means "room" so what I thought would be an electronics shop was actually a large hotel, which is a great landmark when trying to find a little teeny "internet point."

I walk down the street and seem to not be getting there, I can't tell if he meant just the changing stoplights or the red blinking lights too. I ask another policeman if he speaks english and he says no and sorry. I keep walking, stop, turnaround and walk more, then stop and sit and nearly start to cry. I get up and decide to just start walking back to the train station and just get out of here.

Just then the second policeman stops me. He motions me to wait, and he asks another policeman to come over. He speaks German and Italian, uffda! I start saying "dove e internet" nobody can understand the way I say internet, oy! So I say, email. They both say si a million times and motion me to follow them. We walk a bit the he tells me to stop and the two men walk talk to yet another policeman. They tell him the whole story, from what I can tell, and this man listens to me speak in english then tells them internet point and email, they all bounce and nod as everyone loudly says "si si si si si si", and we are off.

We walk a ways and again stop. These men are ridiculous but sweet. Just to be absolutely certain, they go into a small drugstore and bring out a man who can speak english decently. They tell him to listen to me. I tell him what I need and he then tells the pack of policemen what I need. They all say, you guessed it SI! hahahahahaha.

After just two more blocks of walking we are there. They tell me it opens at 9am, 45 minutes from now. I say grazia a million times and wait.

Luckily the women that owns this shop speaks english and was able to tell me where to get a ticket for and where to hop on the bus to Amalfi. Lord I just want to go to sleep. . . 31 hours and counting.

Snap! Whoa, oh shoot, you nearly fell asleep again. Ok so what was that sound? Snap! ohhhhh-hoo-ho, it's paint. Look at the ceiling over there, it's covered in the curling dandruff of old off-white-colored paint that seems to be randomly falling to the ground. Wow that last piece was pretty big, and it happened to land right next to that also "pretty big" bug in pacing in the crease where the clammy wall meets the dirty floor.


Oh lord I hope there's not another one of those bugs over here. Don't panic Elizabeth. You're doing good. Look at yourself, you have everything under control, you are sitting on top of your suitcase, and have buckled your purse and backpack to your body and pressed it all snug against the two walls in this little corner. You have claimed your space and you are going to be ok. . . yeah. . . heh. . . yeah.

Oh screw it, you're going to die! I mean did you see that homeless gimp down the hall? Or on the steps to the platform, didn't you see those two hookers in their back leather and high heels? Are you listening at all to that tall stocky man that keeps staring at you as he walks back and forth singing about the "girl in the corner" ahhhh!!? This is it! You are gonna die my friend! YOU ARE GONNA DIE! 

You are crazy! I am crazy. I mean. It's a miracle that you even got off at the right place. It was a miracle that the people in the train coach you were in were nice to you and that one of them could speak some English, which meant they could translate to you where that old guy was telling you to get off. Ha! 

It's 4am and you ought to start thinking either how your going to fight if any of these people come up to you and how you are gonna get out of here. What a mistake. I should have never tried to do this on my own. I should have just spent a fortune and stayed in Rome tonight and not been that last person to get a ticket out of Termini station. Believe it or not they actually cut off everyone behind me saying it was too late and no one beyond the cut in line could purchase a ticket. 

Breathe. Breathe. It'll all be ok. At least the lights are on. just close your eyes again, you are so tired just 24 hours ago you were waking up in Singapore. With no sleep this all seems worse. Think about it, a homeless gimp is really not going to club you to death with his wheelchair. Keep praying and maybe another miracle will happen. 

"That's just what I was about to do." laughed a man's voice.
Ok que to open eyes, someone is speaking to you in english and doesn't have an accent. "Oh yeah?" I say to the blond haired 20-somthing American walking past me toward the schedule posted on the wall. 
"Yeah we haven't slept and our train doesn't leave for hours."
I must seem desperate, and scared, I am grasping for any bit of conversation to keep this guy here. He says he has to run to get his fiance from the other side and they'll be back- this area is much cleaner, he says. 
"Clean-ER? Goodness."
"Yeah"
Oh Lord, thank you so much. I am saved. I am saved! hahahah oh wow. I don't know if these people are angles or actually exist. But whatever they are I'm just glad I am not so alone.

We deciding to walk up the stairs to a small cafe that had just opened, and force ourselves to drink water and eat something. Amazingly, I am so out of it, it's like I'm drunk. You'd think with the BO of a person who hasn't showered in a while, rode on a sweaty train, and been sitting in the much downstairs, it would be unlikely to get hit on. EEEEEEEE- wrong! So in this state of not realizing what is around me, I end up talking with a creepy local asking about hostels and internet. 
"Um, I'm pretty sure that guys is trying to pick you up." says my new friend.
"Really."
"Ha-yeah."
"Great..."

Can you believe it. UHHH! Some Italians! 

So from about 5am to 8am, this young couple from Seattle and I keep each other awake and safe while we wait for the sun to come up and the trains to start running. They are headed to Paestum, a place with ancient ruins about and hour and a half away. I am unsure still if I will continue on. If today was this bad, how much worse with the next month be? 

Just when I'm thinking I might catch a train to Hamburg and say I'm finished with all this hoopla. The gentleman's fiance, says to me, "You know, I think you are really brave. I know that I couldn't do this without him."
"Wow. Thank you."
"No I mean it, you are really brave, sometimes I want to quit, and he pushes me to keep going. I know that I could never do something like you are and be by myself."

Wow. Ok God, I got the message. I'll keep going. I guess I'm not really alone. Sometimes, I just can't believe that all these little miracles happened to get me this far... It's scary as all heck, but I think I'm going to keep going forward. 

I can do this.

Leaving



Today, everyone is flying home . . . well, most people are flying home. A few brave tadpoles in this pool have decided to venture off into the wild and chance being eaten new habitats. I happen to be one of those insane individuals. I'm fly to Dubai to connect with a flight to Rome. Yes! ROME!! I am going back to Italy to learn about and explore the country on my own and any other that I might run into on my trek to Hamburg, Germany.


I am nervous and worried. I fear this trip may be more challenging than I had imagined before. I fear that maybe not all the fish in this new pond are willing to let this tadpole continue swimming and growing unharmed. Perhaps this new adventure will be the time of my life, changing me, and showing myself that I am stronger than I had ever imagined. Or will it be the event that tries my sole and finds me weak, uncertain, and false. The worst part is I am not sure what the answer will be.


There are so many "what-if's" that I feel like I'm jumping to my death. I am pretty sure that I will not be sleeping in the next 24 hours and that is making my really worried. I can't speak much Italian and that might be a problem along the way. What will I do and how will I get to Salerno and Amalfi? How will I ever figure this out?. . . I wish I was not so alone in all this.




First Impressions

Well I made it. After, over 14 hours of flying and a layover in Dubai, I have landed in singapore. It seems such a shock to have just been in Rome and now here is this tropical place. It’s raining here and as I look around me the waxy leaves of the plants the gloss and beads of liquid make this place seem nearly unreal. Even sitting in the taxi seemed somehow exotic.
I arrive at the hotel and took the “lift” up to my room on the ninth floor. I feel so nervous to meet the other 23 students here. I swipe my key card three times and finally get room 911 open, hopefully that number is just a coincidence and not a sign that I’m going to need an ambulance or something. As soon as I get in the room a place my now broken suitcase in a slightly out of the way place. Unfortunately, my brand new suitcase was crushed during the trip at some point and now there’s a two foot long slash on the side and parts of the hard shell have cracked off completely. But this turn of events will not bring me down, I’m in a jungle of sorts for goodness sake, and this is going to be great . . right?
Just two doors to the left is Chef Kirsten Kleeber’s room. I give her a call to let her know that although I am late I have made it here. After a brief conversation she lets me know that the whole group is about to meet in the lobby and head to a special reception, at which I must be in
perfectly pressed full uniform . . .AHHHHHHHH! I ended up just throwing on my uniform and rushing down nine floors to meet up with everyone.
We left the hotel crossed the street and walked up many, many brick steps to reach the At-Sunrice school. As soon as we arrived we were greeted by

Chef Christop, who proceeded is poking fun at our melting. Yes, after just fifteen minutes outside my chef coat was seriously soaking with sweat and my face dripping with salty water.
Chef Christop led us down more stairs and into a room with a table covered in delicious asian tapas. To

refresh our withering bodies were four pitchers of iced lemongrass tea. THis refreshment was so good that by the time I made it to the table it was gone. . .perfect...

Despite this semi-unfortunate series of events, I did get some amazing asian tapas. Eating was necessary at this point. I have not bee so grateful for such small bites of food in a long time. I hope tomorrow will be better. We have class starting at 7:45am sothis could be a miniature disaster. Another 6 hour time difference is not so good after such a crazy week in Italy... everyone cross your fingers.



I Am Really Doing This

It’s 5:45am, I look at the time and pull a wisp of downy comforter up to my jaw. “Mmmmmmmm, I can sleep later.” I am relieved to tell myself this since on a class morning I’d be up by this point. I can rest for another hour and 15 minutes, because the orientation isn’t until 9:00 this morning. For a moment, the fear of sleeping through the alarm and missing this meeting invades my plush little bubble, but exhaustion swats that pesky bother way. Asleep again, until the familiar tones ring me awake again.


After some debate on what to wear, I leave the house in a small heap of putty-colored ruffles, dark denim, boots, and a creamy colored cardigan. Hair is, as usual, in appropriately messy vines of curls. I catch the bus, run to seven eleven, and snag some juice, gardettos, and one of the worst turkey sandwiches I’ve ever spent money to eat. Although I have about 20 minutes to spare, I rush, scarfing down the bread and meat as I take quickly paces long strides along the sidewalk. You see, I was a bit paranoid about being late for this meeting, since I absentmindedly didn’t set the alarm last week and missed the first one. (This is a make up meeting)


I’m the second one here. I sit on the left. In the second to the last row, two desks in, I make myself at home, find the spot were I stopped reading Lunch in Paris, and wait. The few students that trickle in the door, one by one, nearly systematically, fill in the right side. Eventually, three nonconformists brave it and find a seat on my side- thank God.


Finally, the lecture begins as this very pregnant woman, with black hair to her jaw, skin beginning to crinkle with age, and big brown eyes, starts to speak. For three hours we all are instructed that over seas: we will become depressed, we will probably get sick, it will be very dangerous over there. . . . . Oh! And if we die in another country, the school provides extra insurance so our remains can be brought back to the US. No lie, she said with all seriousness and no discomfort, “Be sure to share that with your parents.” Oh yeah, that’ll be the first think I tell them. That’s not scary at all right . . .ha! One moment she is telling us that this will be one of the best experiences of our life and the next she warns us that it will be terrible. Warnings are good, but at a certain point they seem to cause the very feelings they are meant to relieve.


After what seemed like a full day of class, we were let out. By this point, I felt pretty anxious about the whole trip, not just study abroad but all my travel plans. I felt like that honeymoon stage, that woman was talking about in her “culture shock” speech, was already over, and I haven’t even started the marriage yet. Okay, so maybe I’m being a little dramatic. But there are so many things to do and I only have a month to do them all in. After that, I have to be “ready” and just go.


In light of this deeper “oh sh**!” revelation, I was relieved that I had scheduled to meet with a friend, (I will be visiting in her while in Germany) and work on the "when’s and where’s" of our meeting up in July. Together we decided to do in depth searches and work on solidifying my traveling schedule. I searched out a bunch of information on the Eurorail, student ID cards, smaller towns by the big towns I plan on visiting, and finding hostiles in and around these cities. After that, my shoulders started to sink into a more normal position and my breathing regulated.


It was a long ride home after and even longer “morning”, of course by now it was nearly 3 o’clock. By the time I reached the apartment I was famished. With only a partial container of milk, a few eggs, odds and ends of spices and sauces and some old flimsy broccoli, so I decided to go to the market. Two stores, 24 blocks, and about 20 pounds of food later, I downed half a sleeve of Oreos and and a pint . . .of milk. Arms full of newly purchased and old ingredients I headed to the kitchen. Since someone had recently told me to watch Julie & Julia, I decided that watching it while I cook would be the perfect time to do it. I opened the laptop and began preparations for curry chicken, curry vegetables, brown rice, and black beans.


After loads of slicing, dicing, soaking, and toasting, the food was ready to eat. Unfortunately, I am an amateur curry-cook, a quality I hope to remedy this summer. Yet, it wasn’t just mediocre spice blends that made for the not-quite-right supper. No! The coconut milk I had gotten was somehow separated and didn’t mix right with the broth, leaving this weird grainy appearance (tasted and felt fine in the mouth- just looked icky). Then, on top of that, I hadn’t been able to soak my newly acquired black beans so they took forever. And, in my lack of time, I had to eat them a bit “al dente” . . . .daaa. At least the chicken was tender. And, when I say tender I mean that each muscle fiber was lusciously plump and moist, and so soft that the force that held together the thighs is no doubt one of the mysteries of life. It isn’t any wonder. After being bathed in a potent pool of cumin, coriander, fenugreek, turmeric, cinnamon, and nutmeg infused liquid, I’d probably be in the same juiced state.


Sigh . . . in the end, this was good food. The imperfections were just a confirmation that traveling to Thailand is going to be more than great, and not the sequel to Taken. At this point I am full, happy with the conclusion that yes, I love curry, no I can’t make it right yet, and yeah . . .I can do this.