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By the end of day one, traveling to a city of hot thermal waters didn’t sound like a bad idea. I couldn’t wait to step off the bus and take a dip in the natural waters. As we crept to a stop,
I couldn’t believe that this creamy colored dream was our hotel. Appropriately called Grand Hotel Thermes, this building sits opposite a gorgeous town square which just happened to be filled with venders for a farmer’s market. Ha! Could this day get any more serendipitous?
Surrounding a round stone and plant town centerpiece of sorts was canopy after canopy of all kinds of vendors including: meats, cheeses, a woman who made her own liquers, bakers, gardeners with fresh produce, and even men selling spices and salts. It was amazing to see such a vast array of producers and sellers. Unfortunately my conversation was limited due to locals only speaking Italian and yours truly, the foreigner, speaking English only. Table after table I would be greeted with a smile and a caio or bongiorno then an expression of “oh” ummmm I can’t speak to you and this is probably not a sale so why try . . .All except the woman who made liqueurs. She gave me a sample of the most divine chocolate alcohol. Thick and rich even the hot sun couldn’t melt away the feelings of bliss it produced.
By this point I had thoroughly sweated through my shirt and was ready to take a dip in the pool. Note to all who read this: APPROPRIATE SWIM ATTIRE IS VITAL. My friend and I did not know the swim etiquette so we were sent back to our rooms for having shirts on over our swimming suits and wearing improper pool headgear and footwear. How my hair fit under that cap I don’t know. Once we finally made it past the spa guards, we sank into the water. It was defiantly thermal water. Although the steamy dip made the kinks from the plane fade, it didn’t exactly remedy the
heat exhaustion.
Dinner tonight was at a local restaurant, Vineria X Bacc. This local gem was just a short walk from our lodging around a curved street and past a steaming fountain. As we made the jaunt it was easy to see that Acqui Terme has had some new paint applied. Delicate petal pinks
and minty greens adorned crisp buildings. Over the last twenty years, more than 120 million euros have been invested into the rebuilding this piece of Lombardia. Why so much? Unfortunately, in Acqui Terme’s past there lurk some dark days. Sinking into financial ruin from the time of Mussolini, it was not until the 1980s the she began to be revived. Today however, she seems to be thriving, and personally I would be in heaven to live here.
After a sharp turn into to an alley housing the entrance to Vineria X Bacc, we were led through the restaurant to a small cube a space between neighboring buildings.
Tables for six were set with wine glasses and green plaid tablecloths. We started off the meal with a bouquet of bread sticks and sparkling wine. After a short toast we moved onto the first course, veal ravioli with parmesan cheese. As the proprietor circled our table filling our bowls with the steaming pouches of beefling deliciousness and our glasses with the dolcetta and alborosa, I was found myself in a state of disbelief. This cinematically perfect moment of dining outside under a yellow canopy, sipping Italian wine, and eating home made raviolis, this was my life, my reality. This night was altogether perfect.
Even our next dish, roast lamb with potatoes, was amazing. I usually can’t stand lamb, but this meat tasted mild, without a hint of wool and barnyard. I loved how tender and juicy it was. And the potatoes, don’t even get me started, crispy amber outsides with golden velvety insides, uhhhh my mouth is flooding with the thought of just another bite.
Finally, dessert came floating out on white plates: fresh strawberries oppos
ite a chocolate flan of sorts, a specialty of this region. The slice of chocolate custard tasted and felt like like pudding in the mouth but had the texture of a soft flan on the plate. This course was served with Rosa Regale, my new favorite.
The only thing left to do now was sip a shot of dark Italian espresso then chase it with some grappa. I usually don’t drink espresso plain, but in Italy, drinking milk after 2:00pm is considered unhealthy and is never done. So, asking for a latte or cappuccino is just out of the question. This was my first introduction to grappa, and can I just say holy buckets!
That stuff is powerful. It’s like a bodybuilder whisky, strong and buff with enough pow in its punch to make you frown.
Dang!
What a succulent finale to such a surreal first day.
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