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A seven Euro cab ride will get you there from the train station. Hidden among orange buildings smeared with black and yellow graffiti and very narrow streets that are bumpy enough to jiggle you out of your seat, the All Osteria Bottega exists. You’d never guess that what seemed like a wrong turn would bring you to this small restaurant with smooth wooden tables, surrounded by wooden chairs with straw seats, sparkling empty glasses waiting just for you and little hanging lights veiled with lace shades.
I found out about this place from someone, who told me to talk to someone else, who told me I had to and eat at this place. In fact, the only reason I took the train to Bologna, called the “stomach of Italy” for its cheese, rich sauces, filled pastas, and famed Prosciutto di Parma, was to eat here. After countless meals across the continents this dinner beat them all. I’ve never been to pleased after eating a meal!
To begin, I ordered the wine my waiter suggested: Savoia Enrico Vino Frizzante Bianco, which means a lightly sparkling regional white. It was mild, refreshing with citrus and just the perfect touch of gravel.
First Course: Prosciutto di Parma
Rippled and convoluted, these shining silken scarves of flesh are rich and have not the slightest hint of pork. Instead, the flavor is more like butter with a delicate hint of meatiness, like in a good cheese. What’s more is the texture. The flesh and fat become one harmoniously creamy bite that literally melts on your tongue.
Second Course: Tortellini in Brodo di Cappone
It’s a specialty of Bologna. Tiny bellybuttons of pasta filled with just a taste of meat, bathing in barely hazed broth dotted with floating golden oil and melted patches of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. The pasta is bright yellow and al dente and the filling is a mild pork sausage, the broth is simple, warm, flavorful and making me miss m mother.
This is the premier dish of the house. When ordering my waiter insisted I eat this, they’d make a special single portion for me he said, (it’s usually served in twos only) I agreed without even asking what meat was in it first. Serendipitously, it consisted of a veal chop, bone on pounded out ever so thinly breaded, fried, then covered with prosciutto and parmigiano and allowed to relax in a pool of sauce- a thick reduction of broth. It was rich tender and salty and accompanied by ultra crisp, thick-cut fries seasoned with rosemary
My least favorite part of the meal was this risotto cake. Caramelized rice pudding dens rich, and covered in a dark caramel skin. The consistantly musy with hard centers of rice granules was just not my cup of tea. But then again, I'm picky when it comest to sweet things.
My reservation here was for 1:30pm and the time now is 3:15pm. I have just poured myself another glass of wine and the bottle is still far from empty. I now know why there’s strong coffee at the end of the meal, and why everyone takes a nap before going on with the day. Sigh, this was just lovely. The smiling owner, who sat down with and chatted with every guest, beamed as he insisted I pay only three quarters of the bill. This lunch couldn't have been any better!
